Allegretti
Last week I had dinner at Allegretti with Georgia (brooklynwinechick), a friend who works in wine sales. She’d had some dealings with them in the past but hadn’t tried the food and as they’d been in my sights for some time, I jumped at the opportunity. Being almost April, we were lucky to sample offerings from the winter menu. Criticism of the restaurant has been substantially positive and Chef Alain Allegretti is not only a vet of Le Cirque, but also the current reigning Hottest Chef in NYC.
Following a pleasantly smooth amuse of chicken liver toasts, we opted for separate appetizers and pastas and chose to split a main. The first appetizer was pan-seared langoustines paired with sweetbreads, pancetta, asparagus, taggiasche olives and beef jus. The langoustines’ creamy sweetness married with the salty elements, the result being wholly satisfying despite a slightly congealed jus. Though this plate and the other appetizer - leeks fondant, crispy pig’s feet (with plenty of gelatinous collagen between that crunchy hoof skin) and a fashionable breaded and fried poached egg - should have been heavy, there was a delicateness to them that invited additional courses
Pastas included a Niçois Ravioli filled with tender oxtail accented by slivers of parmesan and orange peel, and a mild king crab tagliolini with scallions and chili that reminded me of a dish I’d had at Del Posto. Again, flavors were subdued but proficient. This was not true of the main course, a mustard-crusted rabbit loin drenched in a rich, gamey bunny jus which took the dish over the top. Accompanied by roasted baby vegetables, it was a hearty dish for this time of year where the weather can’t decide if it’s winter or spring.
For dessert, there was nougat glacé dotted with dried fruit and nuts and served with a citrus coulis. With the texture of a semifreddo, the chocolate-capped nougat was an appropriate finish to such a conservative meal. However, whatever restraint the kitchen is showing is demonstrative of a steady and confident hand at the helm putting out thoughtfully composed dishes utilizing a bevy of luxe ingredients.
